Match of the week

Smoked jollof rice and pu’erh tea
I not only had one of the best meals I’ve had this year at Ikoyi last week but some of the most fascinating drinks pairings.
Two were with tea - a dish of turbot, crab salad and tonnato which went brilliantly with the Ali Shan, High Mountain Oolong from Taiwan and - better still - a dish with smoked jollof rice with an 8582 raw Pu Erh from Yunnan in China.
Both elements probably need explaining.
Jollof rice is a classic West African dish of spiced rice with tomatoes and peppers. (There’s a classic recipe by Yewande Komolafe in the New York Times which points out that it’s often prepared over an open fire so the smokiness in the Ikoyi version makes sense
Obviously it’s much more elaborate:
“We first barbeque vegetables covered in spices then we make a tea from this that we use to cook the rice” explains chef Jeremy Chan. “Then we fry it in a pan together with garlic, ginger and spring onion and top it with a lobster & scotch bonnet custard. It is then smoked with hickory and opened at the table.”
“There are layers of different types of heat to this dish, the intense spices in the tea that cooks the rice, the ginger the rice is fried with and the scotch bonnets used in the lobster custard. This leads to a crescendo of flavours and spices that while extremely spicy, has a certain comfort.”
Pu-erh is an aged fermented tea with an intensely earthy taste which in this case almost felt like smelling a forest floor after a rainstorm. That might not sound that appealing but it’s one of the headiest teas I’ve ever tasted and went stunningly well with the rice (though interestingly not quite as well with the beef rib that it accompanied which was better with a more conventional Julien Cecillon Saint-Pierre Cornas).
(8582 refers to the recipe, leaf size and factory the tea comes from. All pu’erh comes from Yunnan. There’s an interesting piece about it on Serious Eats.)
With a tasting menu at £350* Ikoyi is pretty well as expensive as restaurants get in London (though I was lucky enough to be taken there) but given its totally original menu and two Michelin stars (I reckon it should have three) it’s a restaurant right at the top of its game.
STOP PRESS: Ikoyi won the Highest Climber award in the World’s 50 Best awards this week coming in at no 15.
*there’s a shorter lunch menu for £150.
Apologies for rubbish photograph. We were in a relatively dark room under overhead lights. At least that’s my excuse.

Baklava and Moroccan mint tea
Although sweet wines like Samos muscat pair well with baklava sometimes you might not have a bottle or have decided you don’t want a further glass of wine and Moroccan mint tea is just as good.
It’s actually not just mint and hot water.
If you’re making it for one you put a green tea bag and a good sprig of mint and half to one teaspoon of sugar in a mug, top up with just under boiling water and leave for a couple of minutes to infuse. Even if you don’t normally take sugar in your tea, as I don’t, it works, the sugar reducing the slight bitterness of the tea and the mint.
And it’s marvellous with those honey-drenched pastries that they have all through north Africa and the middle east.
Last weekend we served some ready-made ones from Waitrose’s Levantine Table range along with a refreshing orange fruit salad with orange flower water but you can pick them up from any middle-eastern shop.
A simple and refreshing way to end a meal.
Photo by Lottie Griffiths on Unsplash

Coffee and chocolate
This week’s match of the week might sound blindingly obvious but it’s taken to a level I haven’t encountered before.
Mind you you’d expect nothing else from chef Ashley Palmer-Watts who used to be Heston Blumenthal’s right hand man at The Fat Duck and more recently at Dinner
He’s now branched out on his own and developed a range of coffees under the Artisan Coffee label. Each is accompanied by a different chocolate which is designed to echo the flavours of the coffee
I’ve only worked my way through four of the six combinations so far (to avoid being permanently wired I’m restricting myself to one a day) but am really enjoying the different pairings, especially his advice to let the chocolate melt on your tongue as you sip the coffee.
The coffees will shortly be available in teabag-like bags so you can easily make yourself a mug though as I grind my own beans I tried those out too. (They also come in pods and as bags of ground coffee - you can see the full range on the website though some products are not yet available)
My favourite combinations so far are the Heroine which comes with a chocolate disc flavoured with caramel and hazelnuts and the Enigma which is paired with a chocolate with raspberry, raisin and apricot (all have a little bit of crunch). I’m not sure either would work quite as well with milk and/or sugar - the chocolate really does the job of sweetening the drink - but that’s my own personal taste. The idea is to make coffee accessible rather than geeky.
If you're a coffee-lover you might also enjoy my post on What food to pair with coffee
I was sent the coffee and chocolate as a press sample.

Hainanese chicken and green tea
Alcohol-free drinks are sometimes overlooked as an accompaniment to food but tea, in particular, can be a good pairing and may be an unexpectedly good option for those of you who are doing dry January.
I’d ordered in the chicken from a local Bristol street food stall called fatrice as they were offering a special of Hainanese chicken rice, a delicate dish of poached chicken and rice given a kick with a drizzle of chilli sauce.
I was intending to have it for supper but it looked and smelled so appetising when it arrived at I o’clock that I couldn’t resist having it for lunch and decided to brew up a mug of Jing Tea’s intensely fragrant Dragon Well Single Garden green tea with it which went perfectly.
Challenged by Jing, who sent me some tea samples I’ve been making loose leaf tea once a day during January and must admit it’s absolutely transformed my attitude to tea. Up to now I've lazily tended to fall back on tea bags, but using loose leaves - and enough of them - is a game changer. I’ve tried it before at various times but the tea-ière (like a small cafetière) they provided me with is so easy to use that the habit’s sticking. (Sounds like an ad doesn’t it but this ISN’T a sponsored post!)
And if you want to make Hainanese chicken yourself there’s a recipe here

Date and Nutella balls and cold brew coffee
I’m a recent convert to cold brew coffee - I never used to think I liked iced coffee much maybe because it was made with instant coffee back in the day but cold brew coffee made with freshly ground beans is another matter altogether.
Anyway I went along to try the new coffees my pal Amir Gehl has introduced to the very posh Parcafé on the Park Lane side of the Dorchester and after we’d finished tasting asked to try the cold brew which is made from beans from the Dattera farm in Brazil. It’s very smooth and chocolatey, particularly when made as a cold brew and went brilliantly well with the café’s ‘Healthy Bites’ (not *so* sure about 'healthy' though they were fashionably vegan).
They are apparently made with dates, Nutella, oats and oat milk - not my kind of thing normally but really insidiously more-ish. Turns out - although you probably knew this already that date and Nutella balls are A Thing - Google them and you’ll find dozens of recipes. I can also recommend the Hazelnut Dacquoise.
Amir, whose company Difference Coffee supplies a number of 3 Michelin star restaurants has also placed what must be one of the most expensive coffees in London at the Parcafé - from a batch of 2019 Esmeralda Geisha which he sourced before it went on public auction. It costs an eyewatering £15 a cup which is fair enough I guess if you’re talking about one of the world’s best coffees. You’d probably pay that for a fine wine or a rare whisky so why not coffee if you can afford it? And if you stay at the Dorchester you probably can.
I went to Parcafé as a guest of Difference coffee
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